How to Spot a Genuine Antique Piece
- Kin Jewellery
- Mar 15
- 3 min read
Updated: Apr 25
Antique jewellery holds a charm that modern pieces simply can’t replicate. However, with reproductions and vintage-style designs becoming more common, it’s important to know how to distinguish a true antique from a modern replica. Whether you’re a collector or a first-time buyer, these key signs will help you identify an authentic antique piece.
1. Hallmarks & Maker’s Marks
One of the first things to check is the hallmark, which can indicate the metal purity, origin, and age of the piece. Look for:
Gold & Silver Marks – Different eras and countries have unique hallmarking systems.
Maker’s Marks – These often identify the jeweller or workshop that crafted the piece.
Date Letters & Assay Marks – Some antique pieces, especially those from the UK, have date stamps indicating the year they were assayed.
2. Signs of Handcrafting
Before the 20th century, most jewellery was handmade, meaning true antique pieces often have slight imperfections that distinguish them from modern, machine-made jewellery. Look for:
Uneven engravings or settings – Hand-cut stones and settings may have slight irregularities.
3. Wear & Patina
Genuine antique jewellery often shows signs of age, which can be a positive indicator of authenticity.
Softened edges – Years of wear can smooth out details.
Patina on metal – Gold and silver develop a natural patina over time, which can add to their beauty.
Worn engravings or markings – Heavily worn marks may indicate authenticity, but be cautious of pieces where markings seem artificially faded.
4. Antique Cuts & Stone Settings
Gemstone cutting styles have changed over the centuries. Antique pieces often feature:
Old Mine Cut or Rose Cut Diamonds – These cuts predate modern brilliant cuts and have a unique, handmade sparkle.
Collet or Closed-Back Settings – Many Georgian and early Victorian pieces have enclosed settings rather than open ones.
Foil-Backed Stones – Some antique pieces use a foil backing to enhance gemstone color and brilliance.
5. Style & Design Era
Each jewellery era has distinct characteristics. Recognising these can help determine a piece’s authenticity:
Georgian (1714–1837) – Handcrafted, intricate designs, chunky old diamonds - set in silver, with nature-inspired motifs.
Victorian (1837–1901) – Romantic, sentimental jewellery, often featuring lockets and mourning pieces.
Art Nouveau (1890–1910) – Flowing, organic designs inspired by nature, featuring curves, enamel work, and mythological themes.
Edwardian (1901–1915) – Delicate, lace-like filigree work in platinum and diamonds.
Art Deco (1920s–1930s) – Geometric, bold designs with bright gemstones and contrasting colours.
6. Materials & Construction
Old Gold & Alloys – Antique jewellery often uses lower-karat gold (9k, 15k, or 18k) or unusual alloys.
Pin Clasps & C-Hinges – Older brooches often feature these instead of modern locking mechanisms.
Hand-Drilled Pearls – True antique pearls are often irregular and hand-drilled, rather than perfectly uniform.
7. Provenance & Paperwork
If a piece comes with an old box, receipt, or documentation, this can help verify its authenticity. While not always available, provenance can add significant value to antique jewellery.
Final Thoughts
Identifying a genuine antique piece takes patience and knowledge, but the rewards are worth it. At Kin, we specialise in sourcing authentic antique jewellery, ensuring every piece has a history worth cherishing. Explore our collection and find a piece with a story to tell.
Have you come across an interesting antique find? Share your stories in the comments or tag us on Instagram!
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